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The Best Torta I've Ever Had

I lived in North Bronx, just north of Parkchester and west of Einstein College of Medicine. The nearest MTA station was at 180th, at the railyard, and served the 2 and 5 lines.

Out front of the station was a large concrete plaza, benches and planters down both sides providing seating, and enough room for multiple sidewalk vendors without interrupting the traffic flow. Some of these changed with the seasons. The old man selling coco helado was only around in the hot months, when guys like him were all over the Bronx. The roasted nuts stand, on the other hand, was there all year round. In the cold months, I spent US$2 on a bag of peanuts once or twice a week, sometimes splurging and getting cashews for US$3, partly so I had something warm in my hands while standing at the bus stop across the street.

Right in the center of the plaza, though, was a tall cart with a grill inside. Jose’s Tacos, the logo on the side said, but carts like these don’t change names when tey change owners, and Jose might have been several years ago. Whatever his name, and I never learned it, the guy running the cart was a maestro. His burritos were excellent, but where his talent really showed was the tortas.

Jose's Tacos at 180th St Station made the best torta I've ever had. When the chicken, onions, and such were about done, he threw a big handful of queso directly onto the grill. When it started to brown on the edges, he folded the chicken and veg over onto the cheese, then flipped the entire thing over onto the toasted roll he had ready. The cheese held the loose-meat sandwich together, and grilling it gave it a nice browned, crispy crust on the top side, that held together well under the lettuce and mayo.

I’ve never seen another torta maker do the cheese trick. If you know of someone around Olympia who does it, I’m so there.